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Guide to Machu Picchu

Located 120 km northwest of Cusco, the Inca city of Machu Picchu lay hidden from the world in dense jungle covered mountains until 1911. This 'Lost City' is one of the world's archaeological jewels and is one of South America's major travel destinations.

The well preserved ruins of Machu Picchu seem to almost cling to the steep hillside, surrounded by towering green mountains overlooking the Vilcanota River Valley. Even after having seen the classic photos of Machu Picchu in guide books, web sites, travel brochures and postcards you still cannot fail but to be impressed by the awe-inspiring location of the ruins.

When you read about its discovery and the unsolved mystery of its purpose and how it came to become a 'lost to the world' you will realize why so many people make the pilgrimage to visit this fascinating and spiritual site.

With the right information, getting to Machu Picchu shouldn't be as much a mystery as the place itself. You can either book all the components of the trip yourself or you can buy a ready made package tour from one of hundreds of tour operators offering this service. However as Machu Picchu becomes more and more of a popular destination it is important to try and make your arrangements as far in advance as you can.

Independent Travel to Machu Picchu

In order to plan your trip to Machu Picchu you have to understand a little about the geography of the area. Machu Picchu lay hidden from the world for such a long time because its location is fairly remote and inaccessible. Machu Picchu is located high up on a mountainside. The nearest town is Aguas Calientes which is located down in the valley beside the Vilcanota River. Aguas Calientes is only a couple of kilometres away from Machu Picchu as the crow flies but it takes a bus about 20 minutes to climb the narrow, steep zigzagging dirt track that connects the two.

There are no roads that connect Aguas Calientes to the outside world, you either have to take a train to Ollantaytambo (and then take a taxi or bus to Cusco), or take the train all the way back to Cusco. For the adventurous the only other real alternative is by foot by way of a number of scenic trails including the Classic 4 day Inca Trail.

STEP 01: Transport options for getting from Cusco to Aguas Calientes

Taking the Train to Machu Picchu - Buy your tickets well in advance

At the moment the only company operating trains to Machu Picchu is Peru Rail. Since there's no competition the prices are quite high but the service is generally good. Details of the train services, departure times and prices can be found on their website www.perurail.com. Peru Rail is part owned by Orient-Express Hotels Ltd so you actually get re-directed to their website. Considering Orient Express is a huge international company (they also run the 5 star Hotel Monasterio in Cusco and the US$750 a night Sanctuary Lodge in Machu Picchu) their train ticket reservation system is very primitive to say the least. You basically have to select the service that your require, the departure and return dates and send them an email together with a list of your names, nationalities and passport numbers. Hopefully they will respond with a confirmation number (this can take anywhere between 3 days and 3 weeks so be patient!). At the time of booking you don't have to pay any deposit or give them a credit card numbers etc. When you arrive in Cusco you have to go to the train station and pay for the tickets. You need to take the confirmation email and all the passports of the people buying the tickets. The train station that you collect the tickets from is called Wanchac Station (Estacion de Wanchac), it's actually the station for departures to Puno & Lake Titicaca. The station that you will actually be catching the train to Machu Picchu is called San Pedro Station (Estacion de San Pedro). Both stations are fairly close to the city centre and a taxi ride from the centre will cost you just US$1. When you enter Wanchac Station you will have to wait in line to be served which can take anywhere between 10 minutes and 2 hours. You have to pay in cash for your tickets (US dollars preferred but Peruvian Soles are accepted). You can't use credit cards. Try to take the exact amount as they rarely have enough change (Yes this is an international company with a turnover of more than US$100 million we're talking about!!)

During the peak months of June, July & August all of the train tickets can be sold out several days in advance. If you are on a tight schedule it is absolutely important that you make you train reservations as far in advance as possible, basically as soon as you have booked you international flights. Do not wait until you arrive in Cusco to buy the tickets.

(i) Cusco to Aguas Calientes by Train

By far the simplest method of getting to Aguas Calientes is to buy a round-trip train ticket from Cusco. Peru Rail currently offer 3 departures a day to Machu Picchu from the station in Cusco. Two of these departures are on the Vistadome service and one departure on the Backpacker service.

*The above timetable and prices were given to me at the Wanchac train station on 27 July 2007 and appeared to be more up-to-date than the Peru Rail website at that time. Although most of the departure times are the same there are quite a few discrepancies with the arrival times !! Both the information on the website and at the station refer to arrival & departure times at Machu Picchu. This should really read as Aguas Calientes station. Walking from the train station to where the buses depart for Machu Picchu plus the bus ride can add another 30 minutes to you journey assuming that you don't have to queue for either your bus ticket or your entrance ticket (see details below).

The Backpacker service is a comfortable service, everyone is seated with no standing. Snacks and drinks are available at an extra cost. The Vistadome service has slightly larger windows and also windows in the roof. This sound a bit strange but much of the last hour and a half of the journey is through a mountain valley so the windows in the roof help you to appreciate the scenery. A snack and hot drink are included with the Vistadome service. There is also a table in front of you and a little more leg room although I actually thought the seats in the backpacker class were slightly more comfortable.

You have to arrive at the station 30 minutes before the departure time.

(ii) A combination of bus/taxi between Cusco and Ollantaytambo and then train between Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes.

The  round-trip services, as mentioned above, between Cusco and Aguas Calientes tend to fill up pretty quickly so if they're full you'll have to travel by road from Cusco to Ollantaytambo and then take the train between Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu. Ollantaytambo is about 65 kilometres from Cusco along a scenic paved road. You can take a taxi from Cusco to Ollantaytambo which takes about 1 hour 45 minutes and costs about US$25. Alternatively you can take a local bus from Cusco to Urubamba and another local bus from Urubamba to Ollantaytambo which takes about 2 hours 30 minutes in total and costs about US$2 per person. Trains between Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes take about 1 hour 30 minutes.  You have to arrive at the station 30 minutes before the departure time.

*The above timetable and prices were given to me at the Wanchac train station on 27 July 2007 and appeared to be more up-to-date than the Peru Rail website at that time. Although most of the departure times are the same there are quite a few discrepancies with the arrival times !! Both the information on the website and at the station refer to arrival & departure times at Machu Picchu. This should really read as Aguas Calientes station. Walking from the train station to where the buses depart for Machu Picchu plus the bus ride can add another 30 minutes to you journey assuming that you don't have to queue for either your bus ticket or your entrance ticket (see details below).

** For some reason these services don't appear at all on the Peru Rail website.

(iii) Trekking to Machu Picchu. The 4 day Inca Trail is one of the worlds greatest treks passing through spectacular scenery and many Inca ruins.

An alternative to taking the train to Machu Picchu is to hike there instead!! For the adventurous you can trek to Machu Picchu along the Classic Inca Trail. Starting at Kilometre 82 (82 kilometres from Cusco along the railway to Aguas Calientes) this beautiful trek through mountain scenery, jungle cloud forest and past Inca ruins, is 43 km in length and takes 4 days to complete, arriving at Machu Picchu for sunrise of the 4th day. The maximum altitude along the trail is 4200m so you need to be acclimatized and fairly fit before you begin. There are many Inca Trail tour operators who have groups leaving regularly for the trail, accompanied by a guide and spending the nights camping. Prices range from US$350 right up to US$1000 depending on the service.

If time or energy is a problem then the Short Inca Trail offers an alternative to the full 4 day hike. This 2 day trek misses out on the best of the mountain scenery and starts further along the Vilcanota Valley at a place known as Km104, which is much closer to Machu Picchu. It's a moderate trek (but by no means easy) walking uphill from Km104 to the Inca ruins at Wiñay Wayna. You then continue to Machu Picchu itself although you won't have time for a guided tour. You then take the bus down to the town of Aguas Calientes where you will spend the night.  The following morning you then return by bus to Machu Picchu where, if you are early, you can enjoy the sunrise, followed by a guided tour. Most people then take a late afternoon train back to Cusco.

The number of people allowed on the trails mentioned above is strictly limited so you must make a reservation several months in advance. You can't do either of these treks independently, you must go with an organised group operated by a licensed trekking company. These organized treks usually included your train tickets so that's one less thing for you to worry about.

STEP 02: Bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu

The bus from Aguas Calientes up to Machu Picchu takes about 20 minutes and costs US$6 each way (US$12 return). The ride itself is spectacular as the narrow track winds its way up the mountainside. It can be a bit scary at times with almost vertical drops plunging down into the Vilcanota Valley below especially when you meet a bus coming in the other direction! The scenery is lush cloud forest with great views of the sacred mountain Putucusi on the opposite side of the valley. If it wasn't for the rush to get to Machu Picchu this ride would be an attraction in itself. If you look closely out of the window you can see splashes of pink and orange flowers growing on the slopes - these are actually the orchid Wiñay Wayna which can be commonly seen throughout the region.

The buses are clean and modern with air-conditioning (the whole fleet of 20 buses were renewed in 2006).

You have to buy your bus ticket before you get on the bus in the morning. There is a small ticket office just opposite the departure point which opens at 5:15am. The first group of buses depart from Aguas Calientes at about 5:20am then at 10 minute intervals throughout the day depending on demand until about 4pm. However if you really want to get to Machu Picchu early I would recommend arriving by about 5:10am since during the peak season there can be quite a queue by 5:30am!! It speeds things up if you buy your bus ticket in advance, either from the ticket office in Aguas Calientes the night before or from the Consettur offices in Cusco (located in Avenida Pardo opposite Parque Espana - its a short walk from the main post office or just ask a taxi driver to take you there which will cost 3 Soles / US$1). Each bus departs when its full so by the time the 20th bus departs Aguas Calientes the 1st bus is already on its way back.

The last buses depart Machu Picchu at about 5:30pm, be sure to check the time of the last bus as it can be a long walk back to Aguas Calientes if you miss it (well about 1 hour if you follow the more direct route rather than follow the road)

Why do so many people want to get to Machu Picchu by 6am in the morning? Climbing Huayna Picchu.

A few years ago I could wake up in Aguas Calientes, have breakfast and stroll down to where the buses depart, buy my ticket, have another coffee and easily get on the first bus at 6:30am arriving at Machu Picchu for just before 7am. I'd be one of the first people there. The next bus wouldn't arrive for another 20 minutes. Although officially sun rise at Machu Picchu is at about 5:30am the sun doesn't actually start to break out from behind the mountains until about 7:20am (give or take 10 minutes due to variations throughout the year). So arriving at Machu Picchu for about 7am in the morning is idea as it takes about 10 minutes to walk up to the Watchman's Hut which offers the best views over Machu Picchu.

However since May 2007 the government has put a limit of 400 on the number of people who can climb Huayna Picchu, the mountain that you see rising up behind Machu Picchu. This means that during the peak season if you really want to be among the lucky (or mad!) 400 you really have to make the effort to get up early. As soon as you enter Machu Picchu its recommended that you make your way over to the base of Huayna Picchu where you'll find a small hut handing out the tickets to climb. The tickets are free. The first 200 people can climb Huayna Picchu straight away, however they all have to back down by 10am when the 2nd group of 200 can make the climb. It takes about an hour to reach the top climbing slowly - not recommended for sufferers of vertigo. The narrow trail can be quite dangerous at times after wet weather. Unfortunately if you are arriving by the Inca Trail or by train the same day then it is becoming increasingly difficult (in fact almost impossible in the peak months) to climb Huayna Picchu the same day. You'll just have to spend the night in Aguas Calientes and return early the following morning. 

STEP 03: Entrance to Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu opens at 6am and stays open until 6pm. You can take small bags into the ruins but anything larger must be left at the luggage store near the entrance for US$1.5 a piece.

Machu Picchu is a lot quieter before 11am and after 3:30pm. Monday is the busiest day, as many people head off to Machu Picchu after visiting Pisac market on Sunday. Sunday is one of the quietest days. June, July, August and September are the busiest months when as many as 2500 people visit the ruins everyday. Even during the low season you can expect between 1500 and 2000 visitors per day.

STEP 04: Guided Tour

Guides are available at the site. Expect to pay around US$20 per guide for a 2 hour private tour. You may be lucky and find a group that you can join for as little as US$3 per person depending on the size of the group. Check that the guide speaks the language that you understand. If you don't want to spend half your time listening to the descriptions again in Spanish go with a guide that is going to speak just in English (the information will be more in-depth and informative).

A description of the ruins in detail is beyond the scope of this web site. For an excellent guide try Peter Frost's Exploring Cusco which can be bought quite inexpensively in Cusco. As the name suggests it also has plenty of information about Cusco, the Sacred Valley and the Inca Trail.

Optional: Staying an Extra night

If you want longer at the ruins or want to see them at sunrise when the light is more gentle and there are fewer visitors then you'll have to stay the night. You can stay at the super expensive US$750 a night Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge, which is the only hotel adjacent to Machu Picchu ruins, or you can spend the night in one of the many hotels in Aguas Calientes.

There's not a great deal  to do in Aguas Calientes - it doesn't rate as a particularly pretty town being built mostly of concrete, much of which looks half finished, but I think visitors will agree that it does have its own individual charm and character. There's a feel of a frontier town about it, with the railway forming the high street and the steamy jungle-clad mountains closing in on all sides.

There are plenty of restaurants and hotels in the town and its main attraction are the thermal springs which gives Aguas (waters) Calientes (hot) its name. The outdoor springs are situated 15 minutes walk up from the town centre. They are fairly basic, with facilities to change and shower, and are used by the locals as much as the tourists, but it's a great place to relax, buy a beer, and enjoy the views.

Taking the easy option - buying a tour

There are hundreds of tour companies in Cusco and Lima queuing up to sell you a space on their tours to Machu Picchu, as well as specialist (and not so specialist) international tour operators. Most local operators offer a simple one day excursion from Cusco to Machu Picchu including all transport and a professional guide (check to see if the guide speaks good English). It is also worth checking to see what is the maximum number of people in the group. A group of up to 16 persons is easily manageable for a tour guide but more than 20 becomes difficult. I've seen plenty of guides in Machu Picchu with groups as big as 40 people trailing after them so make sure the maximum group size is put in writing when you sign up. Also make sure that everything included in the price is clearly listed. Consider items such as the transfer from you hotel, train tickets to Aguas Calientes (service and departure times), bus tickets between Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu, Machu Picchu entrance fees, guide (is the tour in English only), any meals etc. You'll usually have about 4 hours at the ruins themselves